France and Spain – Summer 2017

France and Spain were the chosen summer destinations again this year. Checking the ferry prices early in the year revealed that the Euro-tunnel price was similar to P & O Ferries so the tunnel it was

Destination – Camping Bon Repos,  Santa Susanna on the Costa Brava for the first week then back to our favourite West Coast of France for the second week.

The tunnel crossing was a first for us in a motorhome and proved quick and efficient, leaving around the same time as we would normally on the ferry, Thursday evening around 10.00 pm. Disembarking in Coquelles gave us at least an hour head start over the ferry crossing for our journey south. We hoped to arrive at the site in Spain around Saturday lunchtime so the plan was to drive straight from the train to near Orleans, sleep for a few hours then head further south intending to stop at Millau Friday evening then complete the journey Saturday.

It was quite obvious, after leaving Coquelles on the A16, that this night was some kind of celebration with many firework displays around us, from not just from the coastal towns but inland villages too. After some discussion we realised that Friday 14th July was Bastille Day.

Our planned shortest route south took in the Paris Peripherique, normally to be avoided but my rationale was that at approximately 2.00 am it would be fairly quiet. This it proved to be, with minimal traffic right from Calais, that is until the (new looking) Peripherique junction, direction Orleans, which has a 2 metre height restriction. Requiring a fair detour including

Saran

residential streets close to Versailles, we eventually arrived at the little promoted Aire de Camping Car at Saran on the outskirts of Orleans at around 3.30 am.

Friday morning, up early, for us,and we were on the road south again by 9.00 pm. Unlike previous years, the road south was particularly quiet, not the usual high volume traffic and stop start motorway flow. Bastille Day, a public holiday! We made such good progress, Millau was reached mid afternoon so we decided to press on and try for an overnight stop around Beziers. We found an Aire just outside the town adjacent to Camping Les Berges du Canal but decided that the campsite looked quite charming, they had a pitch available, so we checked in for a relaxing evening. Trip distance, just over 700 miles in 24 hours.

We arrived at Camping Bon Repos, Santa Susanna just after midday, the traffic between Beziers and the Spanish  border was the usual holiday crush. Checking in, reception were surprised that our van is 9 metres long, despite confirming this in the booking, made a great performance of the difficulty finding a suitable pitch but we suggested the one right in front of where we were having the conversation, behind reception, which they hadn’t noticed. Sorted.

The pitches on this site are really snug, there is little room to walk between outfits or tents once set up, but we soon became adjusted to this. There is a great atmosphere on the site, most of the campers here are Dutch and looked as though they were were set up for several weeks together with every home comfort possible. The big selling feature of this site are the beachfront pitches. We thought, with no shade, that the position would be unbearably hot with no shade for the van so dismissed these at the time of booking, but with a breeze off the sea most days, the heat did not look too much of a problem. The site is split between different types of static “cottages” and camping pitches. The site stretches along the beach but is only about four rows deep, restricted by the coastal railway line, quietly passing the front of the site. All amenities are situated within a short walk from most pitches as is the beach. The immaculate onsite supermarket offered fresh bread and pastries from opening and a huge, fairly Dutch biased, selection of food and drink.

Santa Susanna resort is quite smart. The boulevard style strip has the usual holiday shops and eateries but in an upmarket setting. No sign of Sky Sports or John Smiths. There is an English pub, the New Crown and Anchor, on the roundabout at the beginning of the main street in adjacent Malgret. On Tuesdays a large part of the main street of Santa Susanna is closed off for a market and there was entertainment and craft markets on some evenings. Opposite the campsite entrance is Santa Susanna station with frequent trains to Barcelona. The weather was good during our time here, one morning was a little overcast though so we thought a little exploring on the scooter would be a good idea. Heading west towards Calella just through Pineda de Mar it started hailing, our only option was to turn around and head back to Bon Repos with Anneli laughing her head off whilst both getting absolutely soaked.

After five days of relaxing sun and sand it was time to move on, heading north west skirting Barcelona, along the south side of the Pyrenees, we had two days to reach Camping Les Sablères at Vieux Boucau-les-Bains. We intended to break the journey at Camping Banderas, Villafranca but they were full so we found a pitch at Camping Olite slightly closer to Pamplona. Camping Olite is mostly static type bungalows, appearing to be individually owned, but at the back of the site is a large quiet camping field overlooking distant mountains. There is a large bar and restaurant on site, swimming pool, tennis, football etc to keep you amused if staying longer.

We arrived at Camping Les Sableres late Saturday morning, I found I had booked us in from the following day and there were no pitches available for the night. It was a little quiet when I returned to the van with the news but we were soon consulting the “All the Aires” guide We checked an aire on the southern side of the town but this was full, we then found a good position at the large Moliets et Maa aire. We stayed here a few years ago and is quite a peaceful site considering the size. The beach is a bit of a walk but there are shops and restaurants across the road. There is a charge of €13 per night (2017) using a ticket entry and exit system. Unfortunately on our visit the payment machine did not accept cash or my UK credit card but a kindly French lady paid with her card in return for my cash.

Sunday morning we successfully checking in at Les Sableres, we then found that our reserved pitch was mostly soft sand so not suitable for the weight of our van. The site manger was only too keen to help, although the site was fully booked, found us an accessible pitch that would accommodate our 9m long van. Although situated at the perimeter fence next to the road, the location was actually better than the reserved pitch. The noise from passing traffic and  pedestrians did not intrude too much but  was a few steps from the toilet block and close to the pedestrian beach exit opposite a supermarket.

For some reason, our Thule awning with Sun Blocker sides creates an abnormally high interest from passers by on the campsite and the road who often stopped and discussed with each other, not actually knowing that we can see them from the inside. They are quite rare though, we have never seen them fitted to another van. (See our separate review of these excellent accessories).

We have stayed in this area for nine years now but still find new parts of the town or see different events that are staged by the local council and feel quite at home here. Even the daily market is still quite interesting, lots of gift, clothes and fashion accessory stalls with a regional food market selling wines, cheeses and hot food etc. The area was much busier than previous years, our preferred beach alongside the entrance to the lagoon, usually deserted, but very popular this year.

My birthday was on the last day at Vieux Boucau so we booked a table at Le Bistrot for evening meal. The town was busy this evening with a Petanque match on the court next to the arena. The meal did not disappoint, the food is always very good and the service excellent.

Some years ago we were eating here and a brass band marched down the street to everyone’s entertainment and the same happened this year. An amusing choice of traditional tunes for brass with a couple of contemporary songs, including one by Coldplay, Viva La Vida I think! They marched off as we were asking for “l’addition”. Walking back to the campsite we realised the band were promoting a French version of a Bullfight at the arena and we arrived just as the band were playing out through the rear stage door. We spent a few minutes watching the Matadors being introduced by the compere then returned for our last nights sleep in Vieux Boucau.

Our route back to Calais is virtually the same each year, up the A63 to Bordeaux, to Angoulême, Poitiers,  then stopping at Sainte Maure de Touraine overnight, topping up supplies and diesel at InterMarche. The next day to Montreuil for an overnight then on to the tunnel for a Sunday afternoon train. We approached Rouen around lunchtime and foolishly thought the Buffalo Grill on the “cow” roundabout would be a convenient stop. Being a Saturday, the place was rammed but we had a passable meal for a reasonable price but we are no longer curious about their offering.

The campsite at Sainte Maure has been improved a little  since last year and has lost none of its calm relaxed atmosphere. Good value too at €11.50. Montreuil was staging more Les Miserables performances in the Citadel and the town was buzzing with visitors waiting for the 10.30 pm start. The firework show after the performance was spectacular but brief. 

Our September break will be in England instead of a hotel beach holiday somewhere hot. Looking forward to a rare for us, touring in the home country. Starting in Brighton and finishing in the West Country is the plan.